If you are considering lash extensions for the first time, the menu is genuinely confusing. This beginner’s guide explains what lash extensions are, how the styles and curls differ, which fibres exist, and what the appointment and upkeep actually involve.
Lash extensions: first things first
For the reality show star, Kim Kardashian West fans, eyelash extensions have got to be like Kim’s or nothing else. If you are a rookie and you are just starting out with lash extensions, one of the first thing you might do is….
Take out your phone, open up a shopping app and type eyelash extension in the search bar. Or if you are like me, you go to your local beauty store and tell the Sales representative you are looking for an eyelash extension that would get the job done.
She goes ahead happily to tell you that a J-curl would be the ideal lash for you. A J-curl offers ample opportunities for a classic eyelash extension style. If you are going for a full but natural look, a hybrid lash extension would be great. And here is the thickness and length they have on offer.
A J-curl offers ample opportunities for a classic eyelash extension style.
Huh?
You have no idea what she’s saying. The fact is, you look lost, and you might just as well give up this ridiculous idea about getting Kim’s eyes.
Does this sound familiar?
We bet it does. It has happened to a good number of lash enthusiasts.
READ MORE: C CURL LASHES: THE MOST POPULAR LASH CURL
There are various types, curl, lengths, and thicknesses of eyelash extensions. And quite often, a beginner gets lost trying to get the one that is perfect for them.
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If you are a beginner looking for the ultimate eyelash extension guide or you have been wearing lashes before now, but, you would love to know more about them then this is for you.
Different types of lash extensions
Before we talk about the different types of lash extension curl, we would like to let you know that eyelash extensions come in three forms;
- Mink lashes
- Synthetic lashes
- Silk lashes
Mink Lashes
These are made from the tail fur of Siberian minks or Chinese minks. Mink lashes are generally lightweight and fluffy. As a newbie looking to venture into lash extensions, mink lashes are the most desirable of lashes. The con of using mink lashes is that people that are sensitive or allergic to animal fur can’t use them without getting irritation.
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Synthetic lashes
These are man-made lashes and one of the benefits we know of using them is the curl. They do not require the user to perm them. And they are also the heaviest of all lashes.
Silk Lashes
Silk lashes unlike the name aren’t made from pure silk as we would get in clothing materials. Generally, they’re mid-weight and some people find them heavy. Silk lashes aren’t meant for everyday wear seeing as they are not comfortable on the eye like mink lashes.
Choosing a curl type for your lash extensions
Having decided on the type of lash extension you want, the next step is to choose a curl type. Lash curl styles range from a natural finish to a more dramatic look if you are going to combine your curls. Here are the most basic types of lash curls in the order of the least curly to the curliest;
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J-Curl
We are going to start with J-curl. They are considered the most natural-looking lash. They are pretty much straight and curls slightly at their tips at a 30-degree angle. It the least curly and it is advisable to be used on clients looking for length and volume. We are recommending you use J-curls if your natural lashes are straight or point downward.
READ MORE: D CURL LASHES: A COMPLETE GUIDE TO UNDERSTANDING LASH CURLS
B-Curl
B-curls are similar to J-curls. They are a little bit curlier than J-curls and they point upwards at a 45-degree angle. B-curls are recommended on people with a slightly curly lash so the glue holds the base stronger and better.
C-Curl
These are the most popular lash curl and lots of lash artists make use of them. Putting a C-curl on a straight natural lash isn’t a good idea. C-curl lashes are best suited for lashes that are a little bit curly so it can last longer. C-curls are commonly used because they create an open-eye effect. C-curls curve at a 60-degree angle enhancing the shape of the eye.
READ MORE: HOW TO APPLY FALSE EYELASHES
D-Curl
These are the curliest set and they curve at a 70-degree angle. D-curls are not recommended for hooded eyes or straight lashes because they hurt the top of the eyes. D-curls are becoming more popular and they provide the most life. D-curls are known to give the eyes a doll-like effect.
Another set of curls that are gaining more popularity includes;
- L-curl: they are shaped like “L” and give a lift to the lash-line.
- CC-curl: they are somewhere between the C and D-curl.
- LC-curl: they combine both the attributes of both the L-curl and the C-curl.
- LD-curl: LD-curl also goes by the name “L+”. They are straight and curve at their ends at an 85-degree angle giving them a dramatic curl effect. LD-curl combines both the straight base of the regular L-curl with the curve of the D-curl.
Diameter and width of lash extensions
Most people think that the diameter of an eyelash extension means its weight. We are sorry to burst your bubble, it means the thickness and width of any lash extension. Lash with a bigger diameter is heavier than lashes with a smaller diameter. So, for this reason, we would advise you to put a maximum of two lashes on a single natural lash depending on the diameter of the false extension.
How to achieve a classic lash style
A classic style is usually one lash extension to one natural lash. To achieve a classic lash style, it is advised to stick to .10mm – .20mm. this is because we are putting the client’s lash into consideration. In a situation where you want a classic lash style but you still want it to be super thick, a volume set is a way to go.
How to achieve a volume lash style
To achieve a volume set, we recommend using 2-5 lash extensions to one natural lash while the thickness that we recommend is .03mm – .07mm. the aim is to create a fan-like structure on the eye.
How to achieve a mega volume
To achieve this set, add 6-16 lash extensions to one natural lash. And because we are using that much on a natural lash, we advise that you use .03mm – .05mm.
Different types of length for lash extensions
Choosing the right length for your eyelash is just as essential as picking the right lash curls. This step is important because we are trying to avoid damaging the lash lines.
The length of lash extensions is in diameters. And as a universal rule, it is advisable to consider the length of the natural lash and choose a length that isn’t longer than 2-3mm of the natural lash. The aim is to balance the weight of the extension on the natural lash. Longer lashes always look wispier, and shorter lashes appear more dense and packed.
Choosing the right lashes for different eye shapes
To achieve a great work of art, this is the part where all you have learned about length, diameter, curl, and lash style comes into play. We understand that what looks good on one person may not look good on another. And we can attribute this fact to different physical features and appearances, curl patterns of the individual lash, and the number of lashes.
In this section, we are going to talk about some of the popular eye shapes;
- Hooded/deep-set eyes- softer C-curls with longer lengths will make these eyes open.
- Mono-lid – L or L+ curls are what we recommend for these eyes. The inner corners as well as the outer corners should be kept short. Doing a volume set is a big yes for them also.
- Almond eyes – these types of eyes work well with any curl or length. Anything you do on them always comes out fabulous.
- Wide-set eyes – it has been established that any curl works fine on these eyes. But a balance has to be maintained and you can achieve this by making the middle lash long while the outer corners should be short.
- Prominent eyes – these eyes look great with shorter D-curl lashes. The D-curl adds more drama to the eyes.
We understand that what looks good on one person may not look good on another. And we can attribute this fact to different physical features and appearances, curl patterns of the individual lash, and the number of lashes.
How to properly apply lash extensions
Step 1: raise the upper lashes using a silicone shield.
Step 2: map out the lash length and style
Step 3: isolate one natural lash with tweezers
Step 4: Apply a small amount of lash glue under the false lash extension
Step 5: Apply the lash extension on top of the natural lash.
Step 6: wait for the glue to dry off.
A major pro-tip after getting your lashes done is to avoid getting them wet during the first 24 hours. This usually helps them to last longer ensuring you get your money’s worth.
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What lash extensions actually are
Lash extensions are single fibres, each bonded to one of your own natural lashes with a semi-permanent adhesive. With lash extensions nothing sits on the skin and nothing is glued to the lash line itself.
That one-to-one bonding is what separates lash extensions from strip lashes, which attach to the lid as a single band and come off nightly.
Because each fibre is attached to a hair that will eventually shed, lash extensions are semi-permanent by design. They leave with the natural lash carrying them, which is why fills exist.
If you are weighing the two approaches, our strip lashes comparison works through cost, upkeep and occasion.
The three styles: classic, hybrid and volume
Style is the first decision when booking lash extensions, and it determines density more than anything else.
Classic bonds one extension to one natural lash. These lash extensions mirror the density you already have, so they suit people whose own lashes are reasonably full.
Volume attaches a handmade fan of several ultra-fine fibres to each lash, building density that is not naturally there. These lash extensions suit sparse or gappy lash lines.
Hybrid mixes both across the lash line, which makes it the most forgiving first appointment. Our classic versus volume guide covers the choice by eye shape and upkeep.
Choosing a curl
Curl decides the shape of your lash extensions, and it is where most first-timers get lost. The lettering runs from gentlest to sharpest.
J is nearly straight and adds length to lash extensions rather than lift. B adds a modest lift. C is the most requested curl for lash extensions because it visibly opens the eye. D is the dramatic end, designed for hooded and downturned eyes.
Curl is chosen separately from length, so lash extensions can be short and lifted or long and gentle depending on the combination.
Our lash curl chart compares every option and explains which eye shapes suit which.
Choosing a fibre
The fibre used in lash extensions affects weight and finish rather than shape, and three names dominate every menu.
Synthetic is the firmest, glossiest and cheapest, holding curl indefinitely. Our synthetic lashes guide covers where these lash extensions make sense.
Silk sits in the middle, softer and lighter than synthetic. Our silk lashes guide explains the trade-offs.
Mink is the lightest and softest, the most expensive, and increasingly declined on ethical grounds. Our mink lashes guide covers real versus faux.
Your first appointment
Knowing the shape of the session removes most of the apprehension about booking lash extensions for the first time.
Expect a consultation covering the style, curl, length and fibre of your lash extensions. A technician should examine how your natural lashes grow before recommending anything, and may steer you away from what you asked for.
You then lie down with your eyes closed while the lower lashes are taped away. A classic set takes a couple of hours; volume lash extensions take considerably longer because each fan is built by hand.
Arrive for your lash extensions with clean lashes and no eye makeup, and remove contact lenses beforehand. You will keep your eyes closed briefly at the end while the adhesive cures.
Aftercare and how long they last
Aftercare determines how long lash extensions last far more than the fibre or style you chose, and it is genuinely daily rather than occasional.
Keep lash extensions dry for the first 24 hours while the adhesive cures fully. After that, cleanse daily with a dedicated lash cleanser and brush through with a clean spoolie each morning.
Oil dissolves adhesive, so avoid oil-based cleansers, rich eye creams and prolonged steam. Waterproof mascara should be avoided entirely, since removing it requires exactly the oil that shortens retention.
Never use a mechanical curler on lash extensions, and never pull at them. Removal should be professional or by natural shedding.
The American Academy of Ophthalmology publishes guidance on extension safety and adhesive reactions worth reading before booking.
Cost, fills and commitment
The commitment of wearing lash extensions surprises people more than the price does, so it is worth being clear about both before booking.
A full set is a one-off cost, but lash extensions need fills every two to three weeks as natural lashes shed. Leaving it longer usually means paying for a full set again.
Volume lash extensions cost more than classic because handmade fans take time and skill. Compare annual cost rather than a single appointment when deciding which style of lash extensions you can sustain.
If you cannot commit to fills or daily cleansing, strip lashes are a more honest choice than lash extensions.
Common beginner mistakes
Choosing from photographs. Reference images show lash extensions on someone else’s natural lash line, and the same set looks different on yours.
Going maximum on the first set. Starting at the most dramatic option is the fastest route to regret. Build up across appointments instead.
Choosing on price alone. Unusually cheap lash extensions usually mean rushed isolation, which is where damage genuinely happens.
Skipping the daily cleanse. The single most common reason a set fails ahead of schedule.
Choosing a technician
Application quality determines both how a set looks and how your natural lashes fare underneath it, so it matters more than any choice on the price list.
Judge lash extensions on healed work rather than photographs taken immediately after application. Any set of lash extensions looks good on day one; the real test is how it looks at two weeks.
Ask how they isolate each lash before applying lash extensions. Bonding an extension to two natural lashes at once restricts movement and causes breakage, and rushing is the usual reason it happens.
A technician willing to talk you out of a length your lashes cannot carry is worth keeping. Anyone who agrees to everything without examining your lash extensions candidates first is prioritising the booking.
Hygiene around lash extensions should be visible without prompting: clean tools, fresh tape and washed hands before they begin.
Taking a break from extensions
There is no requirement to wear lash extensions continuously, and plenty of people cycle on and off through the year.
Book a professional removal rather than pulling anything off. A solvent dissolves the adhesive and releases lash extensions cleanly without stressing the natural lash beneath.
Your own lashes will look thinner than expected once the lash extensions are gone. That is largely contrast after weeks of added density rather than genuine loss.
A fortnight bare, with an oil-free conditioning serum at night, is enough for most people before booking lash extensions again.
Conclusion
Lash extensions are less complicated than the menu suggests once you understand the three decisions: style for density, curl for shape, fibre for weight and finish.
Start conservatively with your first lash extensions. A hybrid set in a C curl with a mid-weight fibre suits most first-timers, and everything can be adjusted at the next appointment once you have lived with it.
Be honest about the upkeep before booking. Lash extensions reward daily cleansing and regular fills, and they punish neglect faster than any other beauty treatment on the menu.
