May 19, 2022
different types of eyelash sizes

Eyelash extension chart; a guide to the right eyelash Curl

Eyelash extensions guidelines

Lash artists do not go about fixing eyelash extensions without any guidelines. The best of them usually use an eyelash extension chart as a guide when mapping various lash designs.

The major purpose of using an eyelash extensions chart is to help the artist understand the different types of lash extensions curls, thickness, length, and how each feature complements the other.

Eyelash extension curl chart

There are several eyelash extension curls on the market today. These curls aren’t one-size-fits-all, so, it is important to follow an eyelash extension curl chart to understand who can use what curl.

Under this basis, there are three types of natural lash angles, they include; straight, downward, and upward facing lash extensions.

The image above serves as a pictorial guide to the different eyelash extensions curl available.

How to choose a lash curl for your client

On selecting the ideal eyelash curl for your client, the table below will serve as a guideline to follow;

CurlOn downward lashOn straight lashOn upward lash
I curlDon’tYesDon’t
J curlDon’tLash-liftOpen-eye
B curlDon’tLash-liftOpen-eye
C curlLash-liftOpen-eyeWith care
D curlOpen-eyeDoll-eyeDon’t
U curl Open-eyeDoll-eyeDon’t
M curlLash-liftWide-eyeDon’t
L curlDon’tWide-eyeDon’t
L plus curlDon’tWide-eyeDon’t

The type of lash curl you decide on determines if your client will end up with a lifted (open) eye or not. The main feature responsible for the lifting eye effect is the angle of the lash curl.

Check the table below to find out which angle should be used on which eyelash extension curl to get the desired effect.


Eyelash extension curl chart

The eyelash extensions curl chart lists the different types of eyelash extensions curl available.

The various types of eyelash extensions curl are divided into two major groups. These groups include;

Laid back lash curl

under this group, we have the L curl lashes, J curl lashes, and B curl lashes. These lash curls can also be called subtle lash curls because their effect isn’t really pronounced when compared to the other group. Subtle lash curl gives off a subtly enhancing effect to the face of the client it is used on.

  • L curl lashes – L curl lashes are straightforward eyelash extensions usually without an angle. They are majorly used to enhance the feature of a natural-looking eye shape. Men clients can also use this lash curl because it merely just defines what s client already has.
  • J curl lash – asides the fact that J curl eyelash extensions are the most natural-looking of this group, they also provide a lash lift effect on upward-facing lashes.
  • B curl lashes – although B curl lashes are a bit curlier than J curl lashes, they are also a good option for clients with straight looking or upward facing eyelashes.

Dramatic lash curls

dramatic lash curls consist of lash extensions that go all out. As opposed to subtle lash curls, these lash curls create a noticeable effect on a client. Under this group we have the following types of lash curls;

  • C curl lashes – these lash curls are very popular and they are suitable for clients who have a slight curl to their natural eyelash. Even clients with straight angled or horizontal angled lashes can use this particular type of lash curl because it will create an open eye effect.
  • D curl lashes – D curl lashes are also called CC curl. D curl lashes are really curly and they need to be applied properly for them to last long. D curl lashes are the best options for clients with straight or downward angle naturally looking lashes because they will create an open-eye effect.
  • U curl lashes – U curl lashes are the curliest of the set and they are the most suitable type of lash curl for clients with downward angle natural lashes to create an open eye effect.

Eyelash extensions thickness chart

To avoid poor retention of your client’s eyelash extensions, we advise you to understand the various types of lash extension sizes taking into consideration the thickness and the length of the lash set.

In so doing, the state of your client’s natural lashes is also considered because it is a critical decision that determines if the extensions will fall off prematurely.

How to choose the right lash thickness

Determining the thickness of a client’s eyelash isn’t something that should come off the head of any lash artist. In many situations, it is ok not to know the diameter of your client’s lashes. In such cases, a lash artist must compare their client’s natural lash to the thickness of lash extensions they want to apply.

Lash extensions that are manufactured and sold by companies usually come with labels indicating the thickness of each lash set.

Using this method will help the lash artist make an informed decision on the lash weight the client’s natural lash bed can carry.

In other cases, ethnicity comes into play when deciding the diameter of lash extensions to use on a client. A good example of such a scenario would be the Asians. The Asians have been known to have thinner natural eyelashes when compared to other people.

Another important factor to consider when choosing the right lash thickness for your client would be their age. As one grows old, their eyelash grows thinner with them. A client that is over 50 years old won’t have the same eyelash thickness when compared to a younger client.

Using the chart above, clients with thinner lashes should be asked to use lash extensions between the diameters of 0.10mm – 0.15mm. And clients with stronger natural lashes should opt for 0.15mm – 0.20mm.

Lash extension length guide

This guide will assist you with knowing when to apply either long or short lash extensions. Short lash extensions between 5 – 9mm are ideal for the inner corners and lashes between the lengths of 9mm – 13mm can be used for the other parts of the lash line.

This method isn’t set in stone as some lash artists have been known to mix longer lengths of lashes to get their desired result.

How to choose the right lash lengths

Just like choosing the right lash thickness, picking the right lash length is the job of the lash artist. The lash artist must understand that whatever lash length he/she decides on depends on the state of the client’s natural lashes.

For example, a lash artist should be able to tell a client that a particular lash set is too long for his/her natural lash.

Other factors to consider when choosing the right lash length includes the eyelids of your client and the type of curl in question.

In a situation where your client has hooded or droopy eyelids, it would be wise to go for slightly longer lashes. This will give off the illusion of more length as the lashes won’t hide under their eyelids.

In the case of the type of curls, lash curls such as D and U curls, the curls are more pronounced but the lash length appears shorter than they are.

Need help with lash curls? We have a detailed article on…